Take those out and you will have access to the leads, which you will need to re-solder the cables to. Once you have it out, there are 3 screws as a guard for the circuit. It is only held in by some pretty strong glue, so take your time, but it will just push and wiggle out. NOTE - It looks like you have to unscrew the button from the frame (which looks impossible, and is), so don’t try to do that. In order to fix it, you’ll have to push the physical button out of the back casing. Once I took the two button cables and connected them, it turned right on.
Make sure that the power button cable is not severed. Just had the same problem after installing an SSD. If the LED is ON and there is no image on the LCD display panel, the LCD display panel or inverter might be installed incorrectly or need replacement. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and video signal is being generated. LED 4 - Indicates that the computer and the LCD display panel are communicating. If LEDs 1 and 2 are ON and you heard the startup sound, but LED 3 is OFF, then the video card might be installed incorrectly or need replacement. This LED will be ON when the computer is communicating properly with the video card. LED 3 - Indicates that the computer and the video card are communicating. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and the power supply is working correctly.
LED 2 - Indicates that the main logic board has detected proper power from the power supply when the computer is turned on. The LED will turn off only if the AC power is disconnected or the power supply is faulty. The LED will remain on even when the computer has been shut down or put to sleep. This LED will remain ON while the iMac is connected to the AC power.
LED 1 - Indicates that the trickle voltage from the power supply is detected by the main logic board. Tell us what the LED diagnostics light to the right of the RAM slots are indicating.
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